Bryce is like a kid in a candy shop in a train station, taking in all the sights and sounds, reliving his youth travelling across Canada working as a 2nd cook on the trains. Oh the stories he has to tell!
|Hanging the wash out is common just adds to the charm!|
We let ourselves be led along the street, not really sure where we were heading, when we came across a sign pointing uphill that said "Mercado" (market). "Didn't you say that there was a market here on Saturdays?" I said to Bryce as we began the long trek uphill. After about a mile walk all uphill, passing churches and enchanting houses, we finally came to the market that filled the square and many side streets.
From the market, we carried on downhill, taking our time to enjoy meandering along the charming back alleys and stairways that lead through the town. Since I didn't have a coat and was feeling the chill, we ate inside, skipping the many tempting sidewalk cafes. We decided this was our favourite meal so far, but we say that at every restaurant here, as the food is wonderfully delicious. Bryce enjoyed the seafood gumbo, while I had cod.
|Tiled buildings are one of the many interesting aspects of Lisbon|
We ended our afternoon in the Fado museum, where we learned all about this traditional Portugese musical art dating back to the 1820s with ancient roots thought to originate with the songs of the Moors. It reminded me of the beatniks, as the music was often anti-establishment, sung in bars and coffee houses, and looked on with suspicion by the government.. In fact, many of the singers were jailed by the dictatorship ruling the country in the early 1900s, who censored the music and eventually placed strict regulations on its form.
After all that hill walking, we went home for a quick nap so that we could return fresh in the evening in order to enjoy the Fado in this delightful area. As we meandered along the narrow walkways, we were delighted to hear this expressive yet mournful music expressing loss and a hard life on the sea drifting from almost every restaurant. It was easy to see why UNESCO has designated Fado as one of the Intangible Heritage forms.
|View of the city from the top of the hill|